Speed climbing record rivalry begins: Dani Arnold sets new Eiger solo record

Posted By: The Ski Channel on April 21, 2011 6:56 pm

I can’t even fathom it’s possible but the speed climbing record of the Eiger has been bested by 19 minutes.  Click here to see the previous world record ascent.  While Ueli Steck is off in the Himalayas breaking more speed climbing records, one of his first records has fallen courtesy of Dani Arnold.  This could be the start of something very special as these two superhumans defy logic and test the human abilities on high altitude mountains.  This is going to get very interesting……


Mammut Sports Group, providers of high-quality Swiss gear and apparel is proud to announce that Pro Team member Dani Arnold picked off the famed Eiger in a solo climb lasting 2 hours and 28 minutes, leaving Ueli Steck’s 2008 record 19 minutes behind him. The attempt was the 27-year-old’s first shot at the soloing the Heckmair route.

The Swiss native now residing in Burglen, made his first trip up the Eiger as a teenager after beginning his climbing career at 14. This trip however, he clearly had one thing in mind, as he blazed past 20 other climbing parties on the way to his 11:33 am summit on April 20th. He began his climb at 9:05 am at the “summer’ start of the first ledge and then followed the Heckmair-route.

The professional mountain guide and trained engineer made a point to personally let Ueli Steck, the previous record holder, who is climbing in the Himalayas, know by SMS that he had conquered his record. “It was important to me that he hears it from me first,” Dani remarked on the Tagesanzeiger Blog. “The speed thing is not so important to me though, my future is mixed climbing on rock and ice.”

Click here to read about Ueli Stecks record breaking performance in the Himalayas.

While Dani is not as often in the spotlight as some of Mammut’s other athletes, his accomplishments are equally as impressive. He is well known in Europe for his 1.5 hour solo of the legendary west ridge of the Salbit(36 pitches) in 2010, and tough mixed climbing routes like the M10 “Flying Circus” and “Come On Baby” in Switzerland . During the summer of 2010, he teamed with Thomas Senf and fellow Mammut athlete Stephan Siegrist to claim the first ever winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia.